How to Space your Pantograph Rows for Computerized Quilting

Posted by on March 19, 2014

This is a commonly asked question.  You will find more than one correct answer to this question. Here is the simple way to adjust your rows all the way down the quilt and get the size pattern you want. This is the method that I use to get all full rows of pantograph and not end up with bad spacing at the end of the quilt.

  1. Decide how tall a single pantograph row you would like. This example shows a single row with a 3 inch tall butterfly. Typically a large pieced quilt will look best with a large pattern on it and a quilt with smaller piecing looks best with smaller patterns. A densely pieced pattern will make a stiffer quilt due to how much stitching is on it so you might also consider that when selecting the size of the pantograph design   For this method of pantograph placement you will need to set up for two rows.
  2. Pick your pattern box large enough for two rows and if you wish to have spacing between the rows you will need your pattern box to be big enough to include the spacing. These two butterfly rows are touching. It is your choice.
  3. Select your pantograph design and add as many repeats as you need to fill your rectangle pattern box.
  4. Scale the patterns. Make sure the repeats touch and the X and O have disappeared from the spacing between the repeats.PHOTO2
  5. Once the two rows look correct in the pattern box, you can command the computer to stitch the rows.
  6. Measure the spacing between the two start points of the pantograph rows, as I am indicating in the picture. To be really accurate you might use the measuring tape that is provided in the sewing screen section.PHOTO3
  7. Measure down from the last row the same distance below and mark exactly where you would want the next row to start.PHOTO4
  8. PHOTO5Move the machine over to the mark and place the needle over the mark.
  9. Click on the Edit Menu
  10. Click Properties button at the bottom of the menu.PHOTO6
  11. Double check that the needle is precisely where you want that next row to start.
  12. Click on the Move Start Point button. The row will now start exactly where you just commanded it to start.PHOTO7
  13. The rows in the screen might look “out of the box” after you move the row, but that is ok. After the rows are stitched you can use the auto center button that is found under the notepad symbol and get the picture back into the box before moving the start point again. If you just keep moving the start point then eventually the picture will be totally out of the screen. It will still stitch exactly where you commanded the row to move to even if you can no longer see the picture in the screen.PHOTO8
  14. Stitch the rows. The second row will automatically follow in place.
  15. Work your way down the quilt following the same row placement method, until you can see the pins and the end of the quilt coming up on the roller. Measure the spacing at the end of the quilt and refigure your rows plus spacing. You might have to squeeze your rows or you might have to space you rows a little more to get full rows in. In some cases you might have to use your slider bars in the scale menu and shrink or enlarge the height of the pattern. Remember that the little green lock symbol in the upper right hand corner of the scale screen locks the two slider bars together for proportional sizing. If you tap on the green lock the slider bars can be used separately or in non proportional sizing. Taking the lock off will allow you to make the row taller or shorter without changing the length of your row. This is where it is perfectly acceptable to “fudge” the measurements of your pattern. Make the best choices you can to keep as close to the original size of the repeat as possible.PHOTO9


Filed under: Blog,TinLizzie18 Quilting Tips

<< View all posts

© 2018 TinLizzie18. All Rights Reserved.   |   2263 West 7800 South   |   West Jordan, Utah 84088   |   888.784.5818   |   Site Map   |   Legal Disclaimer   |   Privacy Policy