TinLizzie Blog
Join the TinLizzie conversation! We’d love to hear your comments and suggestions, and stories about your TinLizzie experiences!
Join the TinLizzie conversation! We’d love to hear your comments and suggestions, and stories about your TinLizzie experiences!
First, let me say that there is always more than one way. The whole point of getting the fabric onto the frame is to have no wrinkles in the layering of the quilt. Any way that you have devised to achieve this is ok-in-my-book
Quilters are geniuses in all that they have invented at home with limited tools to work out the wrinkles and keep the quilt tight in spite of the fact that pieced quilts can be baggy, out of square, or even have variables in the stretch of the fabric.
It doesn’t really matter which method you choose to use as long as you arrive at the point where the quilt sandwich is smooth and ready to be quilted together
The variables in loading the longarm frame can be either the roller direction, the choice of which roller carries the top fabric or the attachment method.
On the TinLizzie steel Phoenix frame, roller direction is permanent and the choice of which roller carries the top fabric shouldn’t be changed as the top roller of the two has to be able to open and lift upwards or you won’t be able to use the batting access option. So therefore the top roller of the two carries the top fabric and the lower roller holds the backing. The only variation or choice on this particular frame would be if you wish to “pin” totally or if you wish to “float the top” method.
On the TinLizzie wooden Falcon frame you can choose the direction you wish the fabric rollers to go simply by flipping the gear on the pole as the gears have a slant to the teeth and grip better with the ratchet. You also can choose which pole you want the top fabric on as you can have the batting exposed or by choosing the lower pole you can have the top fabric wrap up and over the batting. Either way works, but I personally like to be able to tug on the batting and get a wrinkle out if needed, so I like the top roller to carry the top and the lower roller to carry the back. I also like my ratchets to roll a certain direction so that the layering comes together immediately which seems to eliminate a little bit of bounce in the fabric as it is being quilted. You will always have the choice of “pinning” or “floating” a top on. Check out the pictures below.
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When I quilt I am experiencing long stitches when in Lizzie Stitch Mode. What could this be?
If you are experiencing long stitches in either direction this tells us you may have an encoder or connection issue. You will need to check the encoders to insure they are spinning freely and making contact with the track. If the encoders are moving freely and spinning in both directions and you are still experiencing the long stitches while quilting. This could indicate a lose connector on the encoder or a lose plug connection at the power box. Depending on the age of your machine you will have either a 6 pin plug or a RJ 12 connection. Insure all connections are mated properly.
If you are still experiencing an issue. A simple test to determine which encoder or connection is causing the issue, is to turn on stitch regulator and move the machine front to back ONLY, then Left to right ONLY. The direction the machine does not stitch is the problem encoder or connection. Quilting in any circle or curve is not a proper test. To determine whether it is an encoder or cable disconnect cables at the encoder and swap connections by plugging the opposite cable into the other encoder. You should now have both cables connected to the opposite encoder. Run the Simple test again. If the long stitches change direction it is a cable. If it does not change direction it is a most likely an encoder.
Do not hesitate to contact your servicing TinLizzie18 dealer to assist with any troubleshooting.
The favorite choice of longarmers to quilt in(besides slippers) is a smock with pockets. Lately there has been a trend to make the smocks from the slippery jersey fabric because threads won’t stick. Some of the machines are styled so that your waistline is rubbing the batting and cotton fabrics drag against the battings. Therefore the slippery fabric is the favorite. Some quilters make ¾ long vests with the jersey and they quilt in good clothes and this length covers their slacks also. Just keep the smock with the machine and you can quickly cover up and sneak in a few minutes anytime no matter what you have on.
What is the difference between the TinLizzie18DLS and the Ansley26DLS?
This is one question I hear often while attending events and quilt shows. The TinLizzie18DLS and the Ansley26DLS are very similar in many ways. Such as having the famous Lizzie Stitch regulator, 5-year warranty, oil reservoir, built-in bobbin winder, largest capacity bobbin, flexible lamp, needle up/down, laser light, pantographs, and ergonomic handles. The only difference between both great quilters is the throat space. The throat space and the actual quilting space are different with all long-arm quilting machine’s. The actual quilting space of our TinLizzie18DLS is 15 1/2 inches and with the Ansley26DLS is 22 1/2 inches. Both of our Quilters are capable of accomplishing a show winning quilt. So what makes the big difference? Simple you can get your quilt done quicker with the Ansley26DLS when you have the larger quilting area. Therefore you have a real time saver and as we all know time is valuable as quilters there is never enough time to get to the next project!
I once had a friend say “Everyone’s quilt deserves a new needle.”
When asking this question to Quilter’s you will get many different views. Some Quilters Believe and live by this policy others feel if you do not feel or see the difference in your needle while quilting why replace it.
The needle manufacturer thinks you can get 40 hours of sewing out of one needle. We have seen things like chalk or fabric paint, dense batting, dense quilting or that white on white printed fabric dull needles quicker than that.
The general opinion of the longarm quilter is that other things are happening to the needle, not just the tip becoming dull. Needles can warp if the timing of a machine and the direction you are sewing bring the hook point in contact with the needle. We could go on and on about the combinations of things that can influence the condition of the needle. When you take the time to think about it needles are not very expensive, so there is no need to stretch the life of a needle. It is always best to error on the side of changing the needle more often than not.
TinLizzie18 would like to introduce you to our newest member.
Phoenix Frame
Phoenix Key Features:
Included Accessories:
To learn more about Phoenix visit your nearest TinLizzie18 Dealer.
Prewound bobbins can be a time saver, and a convenience. Of course, these prewounds come in both small(size L) and large size(size M) bobbins. The question that has been asked over and over is if we like these prewounds in the longarm machines.
Several of the bobbin companies have given us choices of paper prewound bobbins, plastic prewound bobbins or paper with one magnetic side prewound bobbins. They also give us choices of cotton thread, poly thread, colors and sizes of threads. Therefore deciding if we like them would take trying them out.
Prewounds have certainly found there place in and among the longarm community. I think everyone should try the prewounds. I think everyone should have a box of mixed colors on hand. You should be the judge yourself if you like the convenience of using prewounds—it is a personal choice. Yes they are a little more expensive and yes you might have to special order them to get a specific color.
Here are some of the things we have heard as comments from longarmers:
All in all, the majority of longarm quilters have prewounds on hand and will use them, but not on everything. It is a choice that is nice to have and convenience that we love.