The New Merge Button

Posted by on April 16, 2014

Computerized Quilting Tips

If you can think of the term “merge” as “fuse,” you might have a better idea of what the merge button is for. There seems to be some confusion out there between the spacing buttons located in the repeat edit menu versus the merge button in the repeat menu.

Let’s take a look at some of the screens here and you will learn how to get your patterns to come together with spacing and what the merge button can do for your design work.

1. This is a computerized quilting tip, so naturally you would be working in the computer screens, so open the computer screens by touching on the yellow robot icon.

MERGE1

2. You will need to tell the computer where the cloth is located, so you will be setting the quilting area first. These screens come up by themselves, therefore just follow the prompts. This prompt indicated the upper left hand corner of your fabric. (All the way out.)

MERGE2

3. This prompt indicated the lower front right hand corner of your cloth. The older versions of computers need a three corner selection; the newer ones only two corners.

MERGE3

4. Take a look at the width and height indicated in this screen. If the numbers are 0 or if they do not appear to be true to the size you selected, then check your computer belts to see if they are loose or slipping for any reason.

MERGE4

5. Typically if you are creating a border, you would be putting in the corner pieces first and then you would be setting the long rectangle in between the corners. Take note of the tail of the corner pattern and how it sticks out past the corner piece so you can attach to it.

MERGE5

6. Using the Add Pattern button, you would pick the long rectangle that fits between the corners.

MERGE6

7. To demonstrate the use of the merge button, we are going to select a pattern that is a single segment. If you buy digitized patterns online, you will see many of these single segments for sale.

MERGE7

8. Here is what that single segment looks like when selected. Also you will note that the start symbol (green 0) is on the left and the stop symbol (red x) on the right must be in this order for patterns to connect. If you do not have the stitch path in this order you can use the reverse stitch path button located on the edit menu to reverse them.

MERGE8

9. Now we have to add repeats of this leaf segment. Click on the Edit menu. Click on Repeats. Notice that the slider bar only goes to 20. We need more than 20. How can we get more than 20? We can merge a few of the segments together into one single pattern and then we can use those multiples of that new size.  Take a look at the following screens.

MERGE9

10. I also wanted to clear up any misunderstanding about the difference between merge and spacing. As you can see below that the green 0 and red x still appear between the pattern segments. This is an indication that the patterns do NOT touch and would have a jump stitch in between. If you touch the merge button now you will only fuse the pattern just as you see it. It doesn’t change the spacing; Spacing is changed in the repeat menu.

MERGE10AMERGE10

11. Notice the spacing bar on the right. You can draw patterns together by tapping on the slider bar and drawing the numbers into the negative. When the pattern pieces finally touch you will see the X and O disappear from between the pattern pieces.

MERGE11A MERGE11B

12. Merging small pattern pieces and saving them is very helpful if you have a need for more than 20 segments of the pattern.  As you can see in the picture below that even when we have used the 20 repeats we still need a little more. Auto fill will work for some patterns to accumulate more than the 20 needed repeats. Some patterns work best if you can merge several segments or repeats together and then use the repeats slider bar to add repeats. In this case I choose to gather 5 repeats, get them sized and attached to one another and then use the merge button to fuse them into a single unit.

MERGE12

See the space remaining to fill? You have a decision to make. Should you scale in non-proportion to stretch the pattern to the end? Should you go back just one segment and auto fill? Or should you merge/fuse several segments into a single pattern piece and then repeat the segments? This lesson is for… merge.

13. Choose a number of segments based on how many repeats you think you might need to cover the entire border rectangle. Does that number divide easily by 2 or 3 or 5?

You can also look at the screen and guess by the background grids spaced at 1 inch.

MERGE13 MERGE13B

14. In this lesson I choose 5 repeats of the straight leaf design and merge them together. Then I can add repeats of those five to cover my pattern box.

MERGE14

This screen below is bigger because it is important that you realize these segments are not 5 pieces any more. These 5 pieces have become 1 pattern. Often at this point I will save this single pattern piece, so that I can use it working my way down the side of the border.

MERGE15 MERGE16

15. For the most perfect fit, I will scale in non proportion one last time and then use the Auto Center button to get the pattern right in the middle. Earlier in this lesson I had you take note of the tail end of the corner pattern. You can get a perfect match on that tail by bringing your machine needle to where you want that pattern to start. Then click on the Edit menu. Then click on Properties. Then click on Set Start Point. You have just matched up your two points and the pattern will begin to stitch from that point after you have enabled the needle and touched the green start button.

MERGE17A MERGE17B

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5 Comments »

  1. Marie Matthews says:

    Using this leaf pattern with a beginning & a tail as an example, how would you get the tail of the 4th side of a border matched with the beginning point of side 1? Do you just approximate and then manually guide to the beginning point, or is there some other way to do it?

  2. Doris Mortenson says:

    Just finished a e2e,panto with computer,on the finished first repeat there was a jumped stitch. And only there on 5 repeats. adjusted the current to -0.9 from -0.7 it didn’t do any thing to fix the skipped stitch. Have had trouble with this on other merged patterns, how do you know if there is missing stitches? It looks good on the screen but is not. And the book has no info.

  3. Nora Bordach says:

    This information should have been in the manual for the Quilt Magician when it was first published. I had to teach myself the entire sequencing of designing patterns by trial and error because the manual was horrendously incomplete on how to do things. I am still trying to understand why merge goes vertical on my machine. Can anyone explain that to me please, and how to prevent it?

    • kelleyn says:

      Hi Nora… Thanks for your comments and question. Can you please call 888-QUILT-18 so that we can talk through the issue you’re having? Our instructor has advised that this could be any one of a few issues. We have some questions in order to properly advise you. Thanks!

  4. Pam Schenck says:

    I never thought of using the segments to get the needed number let alone adjusting the set start point. This tips was just loaded with great information.

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