Ready Set Quilt!

Posted by on May 7, 2013

I recently purchased a Quilt pattern from a designer on the internet. How do I get it into my Quilt Magician?

Turn on both your Tinlizzie18 and Quilt Magician systems!

You need to download the design from your computer to an USB stick (2g) is the best but, higher will be fine. Now insert the USB into the left side of your Quilt Magician and wait for it to be found should not take but a few seconds.

  • The USB Options screen will appear, close, restart and File Manager are on your screen, choose File Manager
  • Touch USB as your source, then touch the blue button/with file on it, a list of what’s on the USB will appear. Choose the design by its file name (exp:JMPANTO11C .dxf) it will highlight then touch OK at the bottom of screen.
  • Next choose your Destination: Internal, and touch the blue button at the right of CopyTo: at this point you may make a new folder for design to go or choose one of the existing files exp:Projects,sets,etc…)
  • If you choose to make a new Folder the keyboard screen will appear, type the name of your file and press OK. The new file will be at the very end of the design list. Now press copy and the design listed in Filename: will copy into the new file you named.  When task is complete a square box will be on your screen telling you the File COPIED. Press OK
  • Touch the Home button
  • Set your Quilting field, add a Pattern Box.
  • Next go to Home, Add Pattern your design will be in the new file you made or at the end of list of designs!

Select Pattern, pattern will appear in your pattern box and ready to quilt!

Quilt On!

Trudie

Trudie Patterson

Tinlizzie18 Trainer

I recently purchased a Quilt pattern from a designer on the internet. How do I get it into my Quilt Magician?

Turn on both your Tinlizzie18 and Quilt Magician systems!

You need to download the design from your computer to an USB stick (2g) is the best but, higher will be fine. Now insert the USB into the left side of your Quilt Magician and wait for it to be found should not take but a few seconds.

The USB Options screen will appear, close, restart and File Manager are on your screen, choose File Manager

Touch USB as your source, then touch the blue button/with file on it, a list of what’s on the USB will appear. Choose the design by its file name (exp:JMPANTO11C .dxf) it will highlight then touch OK at the bottom of screen.

Next choose your Destination: Internal, and touch the blue button at the right of CopyTo: at this point you may make a new folder for design to go or choose one of the existing files exp:Projects,sets,etc…)

If you choose to make a new Folder the keyboard screen will appear, type the name of your file and press OK. The new file will be at the very end of the design list. Now press copy and the design listed in Filename: will copy into the new file you named. When task is complete a square box will be on your screen telling you the File COPIED. Press OK

Touch the Home button

Set your Quilting field, add a Pattern Box.

Next go to Home, Add Pattern your design will be in the new file you made or at the end of list of designs!

Select Pattern, pattern will appear in your pattern box and ready to quilt!

Quilt On!

Trudie

Trudie Patterson

Tinlizzie18 Trainer

Filed under: Blog,Lizzie Support,TinLizzie18 Quilting Tips | Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Why doesn’t my Screen display show how much bobbin is left?

Posted by on September 13, 2012

In simple terms, there are too many variables that are required to get the calculation of how many wraps it takes to fill the bobbin.  There are several different threads that are available for long arm machines.  There is Bottom Line, So Fine, Specialty, Nylon, Metallic, 100 percent Cotton, Poly Wrapped Poly, Poly Wrapped Cotton, the list goes on and on.  These threads vary in different thicknesses and weights, such as 25, 30, 40 and so on.  There is no way of measuring how many yards of that thread is wound onto the bobbin in order to enter that yardage into the system in order to keep track of the amount that has been expended off the bobbin during the quilting period.  For example, a thin thread will wrap more yardage compared to a thick thread on the bobbin.  Tension also adds a factor, a loose wound bobbin compared to a tighter wound bobbin will change the yardage.

Filed under: Blog,TinLizzie18 Quilting Tips | Tags: , , , , ,

Proper Oiling……

Posted by on August 21, 2012

Every morning my machine seems to have leaked a little oil on my table. What can cause this?

The first question our service department will ask is “how often are you oiling your machine?”

If your answer is after every quilt. You may be over oiling your TinLizzie18 machine.

To properly oil your TinLizzie18 Quilters we have a dip stick located in the base of the quilter head. After removing the Dip stick it is black and hard to see if it has oil on it.  I always suggest rubbing the dip stick across the palm of your hand, If you see oil on your hand your machine does not need oiling.

I have heard customers state that  even though there was visible oil on their hands they felt the dip stick was not completely saturated  therefore they see reason to oil. This will cause over oiling and leakage onto your table.  Let me explain how the Dip stick is to be used to determine if we need to oil.

 When we oil our TinLizzie18 Quilters we are oiling the wick within the quilter.

The Function of the Dip stick: The dip stick sits on top of the wick within the quilter. It is designed to help show us that the wick within the quilter is properly oiled.   Therefore the dip stick is not what needs to be saturated with oil but only the tip of the dip stick needs to be wet with oil.

Filed under: Blog,Lizzie Support,TinLizzie18 Quilting Tips | Tags: , , ,

How do I attach the extension table to my phoenix frame?

Posted by on February 27, 2012

  Your Extension table for the Phoenix Frame comes with the table and two brackets to hold the table to the machine. These instruction will help you get the table ready and the brackets in place so that you can attach the table and start using your rulers.

1. Removing the four leg parts from the Extension Tables.

a. You may want to use some needle nose pliers or a

socket to hold the nut on the bottom side with the black leg part, and a phillips screwdriver.

b. Remove the leg parts

c. Save the screws from the legs as you will be using these parts to secure the table to the brackets.

 2. Placing the brackets on the carriage next to the machine.

a. Loosen the front screws holding the carriage to the machine.

b. Looking at the brackets you will see four tabs

1. Two tabs have nuts attached to the bottom this is the top of bracket attach to bottom of table

2. Two tabs are blank these slid under the side of the machine.

c. Angle the bracket towards the back of the machine and slide between the machine and the carriage.

d. With the tab below the side of the machine slide the bracket forward so that you can get the front tab below the machine.

e. Slide the bracket back so that both bottom tabs are below the machine.

 3. Setting the table on and securing to the brackets.

a. Place the table on top of the brackets and line up the screw holes with the top tabs.

b. Using the screws you removed from the table in step

1. Secure the table to the brackets at the four (4) points.

c. Once the screws are secure slide the table and brackets back so that the table is against the machine.

d. Tighten the front screws on the carriage which secure the machine to the carriage.

You are now ready to use the extension table with your rulers while you are quilting.

To remove you will want to reverse the steps and remove the table first then the brackets.

Note: If you remove the machine first the table will fall as it is not attached to the machine.

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Don’t Miss out on our TLC!!!

Posted by on August 19, 2011

We are excited that we have our new TLC ( TinLizzie18 Chronicles) available for download!   http://tinlizzie18.com/newsletters/

We strive to give educational information to help our TinLizzie18 community, Written by Quilters for Quilters.  

Do you have a topic you would like to see in our upcoming TLC? We want to hear from you.

Filed under: Blog,Lizzie Support,Shirley Stitcher,TinLizzie18 News,TinLizzie18 Quilting Tips,Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , ,

Let’s Go! With a Panto!

Posted by on June 6, 2011

Let’s Go! With a Panto!

Quilting the same design, in rows, edge to edge, on a quilt, using a laser light to follow a paper pattern is called pantograph quilting. We have just nicknamed the process quilting with a “panto”.

Some of the longarm quilters absolutely love following a panto as they feel secure in the fact that they know exactly what look they are getting before they start on the quilt. Pantos can be purchased in just about every theme so you can customize the pattern to the quilt or to the quilt owner. Also, the learning curve for running a panto is very short and most longarm quilters agree that once you learn, all the pantos are the same as far as difficulty. A new owner of a longarm is encouraged to learn panto style quilting first to gain control of the movement of the machine and it is considered one of the easiest forms of longarming.

First, qualifying the Quilt.

Deciding to use a panto usually has to do with a couple of factors. It is considered the fastest form of finishing a quilt, so maybe you want to complete your quilt quickly. The quilt will end up being evenly balanced as far as the quilting and that makes a nice quilt to sleep under. Maybe the quilt that is to be finished would be laundered frequently and with a panto the quilt is secured with stitching all over and would hold up better. The quilt itself might have enough dominating patchwork on it so that a custom quilt pattern selection wouldn’t be seen, so why spend the time if you cannot enhance the quilt with a custom job. Therefore, panto would be a great choice.

Second, prepare the quilt

I know, we all hate the math but, you will get good results if you plan and also you will get good at estimating. We want to place chalk marks on the edge where the rows should begin so that we are sure about row placement. It is important to place the chalk marks because typically a 100 inch quilt will stretch on the longarm frame to approximately 103inches. In order to come out at the end of the quilt with full rows and not with a half a row you should estimate the number of rows you would be quilting.

If you measure the quilt in a relaxed state and place the chalk marks on the quilt it doesn’t matter where the gained inches from stretching occur as when the quilt goes back to the relaxed state the rows will still be evenly spaced.

When doing the math you must remember that a good rule of thumb is a ¾ inch spacing between the panto rows.  Plan a little spacing at the beginning and at the end of the quilt. You can choose a small space or a large one. If you choose a large space at the end you might want to consider meandering or something to fill it out to the end and keep a balanced look to the quilt. I know that all of you that are perfectionists you will be figuring down to the last 1/8th of an inch but will a product as large as a quilt you will not see small amounts of variances, so don’t  sweat the small stuff.

One thing you might consider when you get your pattern and quilt on the machine frame is where the center of the quilt is and where the center of the pattern lays under the laser light. Just Bring your sewing needle to the center of the quilt and position the pattern where you want it with considerations to where the center pattern goes and what part of the pattern will fall on the outside edges.

1 inch allowance on each end

Measure the space remaining and divide by the width of your pattern plus the ¾ inch spacing.  You only need to mark the left side with chalk as that is the starting place for the machine.

Tip: If you decided to eliminate a row and have larger end spaces you might wish to freehand meander those ends. It really looks nice and finished that way.

Third, get the laser light ready

Be sure that your laser light is tight and will not move during operation.  We do not want that light to slip and reposition the rows while we are sewing along.

Fourth, get the paper pantograph ready.

 Secure the rolled pantograph pattern with tape or with a plastic pattern protector made for pantographs so it cannot shift during use.  Even if you decide that you want to stagger the rows you will do that entirely by moving the laser light and never by shifting the paper pattern.

Fifth, line up your quilt with the pantograph.

 Tip: I like to use the little dot stickers that you can buy at the office store to help me mark my laser light positioning for each quilt. If you have pattern protectors you can place the little stickers on there to help you or some of those pattern protectors can be marked with a dry erase marker and then wiped clean.

Tip: When sewing with the machine, side step at selected points of each repeat to keep from showing any wiggle in the pattern from stepping. I usually choose a point or tip where the pattern changes direction because I can actually stall there undetected for a moment while I move my feet.

Tip: Remember the term “lowest”.

Bring the machine to the center of the quilt frame and place a dot on near the edge of the machine but on the panto. Each time you re-measure you will come to that same spot with your machine.  Then bring the needle to the “lowest” spot on the quilt that you want that first row of stitching to come to. Last, position the laser light to the “lowest” point of the pattern, and even if the light falls between the themes of the panto make sure that the level that you adjust your laser light to is the “lowest” point of the design itself(not the paper). Tighten up on the laser so that it cannot jiggle loose while stitching. Tip: Always start your pantograph row to the right if you are standing on the back of the machine.(The back has the power cord on it.(Standing on the front would make that starting position on the left). End on the left. (Standing on the front would make that the right). Cut your thread and roll the machine back to the right to begin the repeating rows.

Sixth, roll your quilt and repeat.

When you complete the pantograph rows that fit into that space nicely then you are ready to roll the finished quilt area up onto the pickup roller. Leave a little of the last row visible because you are going to want to double check your spacing between rows and you will need to see that portion of the last row.

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