Advanced Fancy Feathers

Posted by on March 19, 2015

Finger feathers are the type that you stitch as a single barb. Most of the advanced feathers start out this shape because they are plump enough to get a secondary design inside. This type of feather also has a little space in-between so you can add some detail in-between each feather. Some of the following pictures will give you and idea what there is to learn. If you are interested in learning these show winning feathers sign up for one of the TinLizzie18 classes. Remember that one of the greatest combinations with feathers is grids. You can also take a ruler class at the TinLizzie18 Learning Centers.


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Zen Work with the Long Arm

Posted by on October 28, 2014

Some of you did zen work in art class in elementary school and might remember this.

As kids we scribbled across a piece of paper and defined some large spaces. Then we went back with crayons or pencils and using our imaginations made our own fantasy designs within each of the boundaries of these scribbled areas.

In this day and age with all of the freedom we have in creating,  zen work is now showing up in quilting. We love it! There is no right and wrong. An amazing amount of new backgrounds are being created. All of it is acceptable. Following are some inspiring designs that we have put together for you to get a grasp on zen work.

Show us your examples on our Facebook page!

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How to Adjust the Ratchet System on the Phoenix Frame

Posted by on June 19, 2014

It’s as easy as 1-2-3!
There really are only three parts to this ratchet adjustment. This is the order they should be installed. Take notice of the direction the ratchets go. The rotation on the top roller is different than on the backing roller.

ratchet1 ratchet2

This is the order they are to be installed. These are the two ratchets on the Phoenix frame. Notice that top roller rotates opposite of the backing roller. If you do not get this direction the correct way these rollers will not properly snap and stay tight when you are rolling your quilt.

I know you can put these on the other way, but we like the top roller to feed the top fabric off of the bottom of the roller and the backing fabric to come off of the backing roller from the top, so that the two pieces of fabric come together as soon as they can. The union of the fabrics helps to stop any bounce the fabric might have during quilting.


This Allen hex key is the tool that is needed for adjustment of the spring tension that makes the ratchet snap down and stay in the teeth of the gear.


This is the place that the Allen key fits into to tighten (righty tighty) or loosen (lefty loosey).

ratchet5The snap on the ratchet has to be just right. If the tension is too loose the ratchet will not snap down and hold onto the gears. If the tension on the spring is too tight the ratchet will be stubborn and not respond well and you might find that you have to put the ratchet into the teeth by hand. You might have to adjust and check several times to find that sweet spot where the ratchet is the most responsive and still holds tight into the teeth. You can do this!


Top Roller Teeth


Backing Roller Teeth

This is the direction the ratchets should be.

This is the direction the ratchets should be.


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Which Ruler Should I Try First with my Long arm?

Posted by on May 22, 2014

There are so many long arm rulers on the market now that it is hard to decide what you should acquire for tools. You probably should start with something simple.

We believe that the simplest rulers are the straight edge, the wavy edge and the arc. Small rulers fewer than 10 inches are the easiest to control.

The rulers below are the ones that we have chosen to use first in this beginner class.


The wide variety of designs that can be made from the arc ruler will amaze you. The trick is to learn to hold the ruler with slight pressure down and into and toward the quilting foot. As you hold onto the handle bar on the quilting machine also place a little pressure toward the ruler. Some quilters glue small button shaped pieces of sand paper onto the rulers to help reduce the slipping of the ruler on the fabric.


The wiggle ruler will help guide you through small scallops, shells, arc, and apple slices. If you want to add a busy look to the quilt you might use smaller wiggles or waves. If you wish to have a more relaxed look to your work you might use the larger wave or wiggle side of the ruler.


The straight edge acrylic ruler is ¼ inch thick. One end of the ruler has a 45 degree angle on it and the other end has an arc on it. This ruler is sometimes called the ‘stitch in the ditch’ ruler. The long sides of the ruler are notched to help hold tight the front or the back of the quilting machine foot. When you begin or end a straight line, you do not want any wiggle in the end of the line so the notch helps to steady your line. Long engraved lines appear on the ruler and these lines can be placed on the seams of the patchwork to measure the stitching distance from the seam.

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