Shine a light – How much lighting do I need?

Posted by on June 14, 2017

By Sondra Reierson, TinLizzie18 Educator

When do you quilt?  I’m sure many of you will say, ‘Whenever I can!’  I’m the same way.  It may be 3:00 a.m. or mid-night or any time in-between!  And many of us tend to start quilting and forget everything else and quilt until the piece is complete or we are forced to stop.  My quilting room has some natural light and overhead lighting besides lighting on my machine.  Throughout my quilting day (I’m a quilt until its done person most of the time) I notice that sometimes it’s harder to see what’s happening with my quilting because of lighting changes.

So how much light should there be?  Do you find yourself squinting, get headaches after quilting for an extended period of time, are your eyes itching or blurry?  This may be an issue with how much light there is and the type of light.  What kind of light?  If you’ve purchased light bulbs lately there are many different kinds of bulbs and many kinds of light they give off; natural, soft white, bright white, etc.  For myself, I prefer a more natural light – it is easier on my eyes, I don’t strain as much.  So, I don’t block the natural light from my windows, but at 3:00 a.m. there isn’t any natural light.  I have natural light style bulbs in my overhead lighting, but the overhead lighting doesn’t compensate for the lack of extra natural light from my windows at 3:00 a.m.

There are several ways to compensate for this directly over your quilting area.  A lighting system that is mounted directly over the quilt frame is one.  These could be permanently mounted in the ceiling over the frame or as a stand that extends over the frame itself.  If your quilt area is a multi-purpose area, lighting that is repositionable may be your best investment; track lighting with positional fixtures.

If you don’t want to invest in a hard-wired lighting system, there are free standing lights that are on positional stands and can have the lighting style that is comfortable for you; natural light, white light, soft light, etc.  Photography supply companies have many options for this type of lighting. Or stand lights that can be found at hardware stores – just watch what style of light you use as some may get hot and you don’t want to get burnt or have safety issues.

If you don’t want to worry about constant changes in the lighting and you have light coming in through windows, you will need to block the light from the windows and then determine where you need lighting, the position of the light, and the style of light that is comfortable for you.

Whatever lighting system you choose for your quilting area, keep it from glaring, have it maintain a consistent lighting around your work area.  And remember to take a few seconds to look away from your quilting surface – look across the room for 10-20 seconds to help rest your eyes throughout your quilting time.  Let’s keep our eyes healthy and happy for our quilting time and beyond!

sondra-r

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Choose Your Batting Wisely

Posted by on April 30, 2014

battingDid you know there’s batting made especially for long arm quilting machines?

Two American made products just for long arms have arrived from Fairfield Batting Company of Connecticut, and been sent to TinLizzie18 Retail & Learning Centers for distribution.

One is pure poly batting, double folded onto a 20 yard roll.

The second is a 60/40 blend of cotton and poly on a double folded 20 yard roll. TinLizzie18 has  an exclusive partnership to distribute this specialized batting from our training facilities in:

  • Janesville, Wisconsin
  • Salt Lake City, Utah
  • San Diego, Ca
  • Atlanta, Georgia

To order just call 1-888-QUILT-18.  CLICK HERE to read more!

Following are just some of the reasons quilters want these two products:

  1. The thickness is perfect for getting two different color threads (top and bottom) to lock the stitch in the batting and not show the other color of thread on the opposite side. This batting is flat yet just thick enough to get quality stitching and easily set your tensions.
  2. The poly batting doesn’t shrink and pucker up a quilt—so you can have that fresh pressed look to the quilt. This poly is tough and has some body to it so it handles easy on the machine and will withstand many, many washings.
  3. The poly also doesn’t retain germs for long as a germ will die on dry poly within 10 hours. Therefore this is the best batting for baby quilts, college dorm rooms, hospitals and elderly.
  4. The poly and the 60/40 hold together well and doesn’t break down and work through the fabric.
  5. The poly doesn’t built heat in the needle like some other battings do so this is the batting you would put into your quilt if you are using threads that are heat sensitive like gold metallic. Any thread that is fussy would stitch into this poly better in my opinion because of less resistance. I use this batting for competition.
  6.  The 60/40 has enough poly blended in so that when you fold your quilts and store them they wont retain a crease like 100 percent cotton does,
  7. The 60/40 is flat and soft and pure white. It has very little shrinkage and is very comfortable to sleep under.
  8. Shipping can sometimes be expensive with rolls this size, but TinLizzie18 has packaged the rolls in easy to ship boxes. They protect the batting in shipping and the shipping expense is less with a box than without a box.
  9. The length of these rolls is perfect also so that you can place both rolls on the batting bar at the same time if your machine is extended to 12 feet. This is very handy to have the rolls off of the floor and easy to pull off as much as you need and place it directly from the roller and into the quilt on the machine.
  10. The price is excellent and you are getting top quality batting that will last for years and years and years in your quilted project. 

 

fairfield

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Ready Set Quilt!

Posted by on May 7, 2013

I recently purchased a Quilt pattern from a designer on the internet. How do I get it into my Quilt Magician?

Turn on both your Tinlizzie18 and Quilt Magician systems!

You need to download the design from your computer to an USB stick (2g) is the best but, higher will be fine. Now insert the USB into the left side of your Quilt Magician and wait for it to be found should not take but a few seconds.

  • The USB Options screen will appear, close, restart and File Manager are on your screen, choose File Manager
  • Touch USB as your source, then touch the blue button/with file on it, a list of what’s on the USB will appear. Choose the design by its file name (exp:JMPANTO11C .dxf) it will highlight then touch OK at the bottom of screen.
  • Next choose your Destination: Internal, and touch the blue button at the right of CopyTo: at this point you may make a new folder for design to go or choose one of the existing files exp:Projects,sets,etc…)
  • If you choose to make a new Folder the keyboard screen will appear, type the name of your file and press OK. The new file will be at the very end of the design list. Now press copy and the design listed in Filename: will copy into the new file you named.  When task is complete a square box will be on your screen telling you the File COPIED. Press OK
  • Touch the Home button
  • Set your Quilting field, add a Pattern Box.
  • Next go to Home, Add Pattern your design will be in the new file you made or at the end of list of designs!

Select Pattern, pattern will appear in your pattern box and ready to quilt!

Quilt On!

Trudie

Trudie Patterson

Tinlizzie18 Trainer

I recently purchased a Quilt pattern from a designer on the internet. How do I get it into my Quilt Magician?

Turn on both your Tinlizzie18 and Quilt Magician systems!

You need to download the design from your computer to an USB stick (2g) is the best but, higher will be fine. Now insert the USB into the left side of your Quilt Magician and wait for it to be found should not take but a few seconds.

The USB Options screen will appear, close, restart and File Manager are on your screen, choose File Manager

Touch USB as your source, then touch the blue button/with file on it, a list of what’s on the USB will appear. Choose the design by its file name (exp:JMPANTO11C .dxf) it will highlight then touch OK at the bottom of screen.

Next choose your Destination: Internal, and touch the blue button at the right of CopyTo: at this point you may make a new folder for design to go or choose one of the existing files exp:Projects,sets,etc…)

If you choose to make a new Folder the keyboard screen will appear, type the name of your file and press OK. The new file will be at the very end of the design list. Now press copy and the design listed in Filename: will copy into the new file you named. When task is complete a square box will be on your screen telling you the File COPIED. Press OK

Touch the Home button

Set your Quilting field, add a Pattern Box.

Next go to Home, Add Pattern your design will be in the new file you made or at the end of list of designs!

Select Pattern, pattern will appear in your pattern box and ready to quilt!

Quilt On!

Trudie

Trudie Patterson

Tinlizzie18 Trainer

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Why doesn’t my Screen display show how much bobbin is left?

Posted by on September 13, 2012

In simple terms, there are too many variables that are required to get the calculation of how many wraps it takes to fill the bobbin.  There are several different threads that are available for long arm machines.  There is Bottom Line, So Fine, Specialty, Nylon, Metallic, 100 percent Cotton, Poly Wrapped Poly, Poly Wrapped Cotton, the list goes on and on.  These threads vary in different thicknesses and weights, such as 25, 30, 40 and so on.  There is no way of measuring how many yards of that thread is wound onto the bobbin in order to enter that yardage into the system in order to keep track of the amount that has been expended off the bobbin during the quilting period.  For example, a thin thread will wrap more yardage compared to a thick thread on the bobbin.  Tension also adds a factor, a loose wound bobbin compared to a tighter wound bobbin will change the yardage.

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I’m all spun up!

Posted by on July 31, 2012

Most people that spend a lot of time with their Quilting machines purchase a box of prewound bobbins. It is a time saver, and a convenience. Of course, these prewounds come in both small(size L) and large size(size M) bobbins. The question that has been asked over and over is if we like these prewounds in the longarm machines.

Several of the bobbin companies have given us choices of paper prewound bobbins, plastic prewound bobbins or paper with one magnetic side prewound bobbins. They also give us choices of cotton thread, poly thread, colors and sizes of threads. Therefore deciding if we like them would take trying them out.

Prewounds have certainly found there place in and among the longarm community. I think everyone should try the prewounds. I think everyone should have a box of mixed colors on hand. You should be the judge yourself if you like the convenience of using prewounds—it is a personal choice. Yes they are a little more expensive and yes you might have to special order them to get a specific color.

Here are some of the things we have heard as comments from longarmers:

1.       They like the prewounds on hand in case anything happens to their bobbin winder they can still keep going with the prewounds.

2.       Many like the prewound with the magnetic side and have claimed that this resistance of the magnet can allow you to do without your backlash spring.

3.       Because the prewounds are professionally wound there is more yardage on the prewounds and the longarmer has to change the bobbin less times.

All in all, the majority of longarm quilters have prewounds on hand and will use them, but not on everything. It is a choice that is nice to have and convenience that we love.

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How do I attach the extension table to my phoenix frame?

Posted by on February 27, 2012

  Your Extension table for the Phoenix Frame comes with the table and two brackets to hold the table to the machine. These instruction will help you get the table ready and the brackets in place so that you can attach the table and start using your rulers.

1. Removing the four leg parts from the Extension Tables.

a. You may want to use some needle nose pliers or a

socket to hold the nut on the bottom side with the black leg part, and a phillips screwdriver.

b. Remove the leg parts

c. Save the screws from the legs as you will be using these parts to secure the table to the brackets.

 2. Placing the brackets on the carriage next to the machine.

a. Loosen the front screws holding the carriage to the machine.

b. Looking at the brackets you will see four tabs

1. Two tabs have nuts attached to the bottom this is the top of bracket attach to bottom of table

2. Two tabs are blank these slid under the side of the machine.

c. Angle the bracket towards the back of the machine and slide between the machine and the carriage.

d. With the tab below the side of the machine slide the bracket forward so that you can get the front tab below the machine.

e. Slide the bracket back so that both bottom tabs are below the machine.

 3. Setting the table on and securing to the brackets.

a. Place the table on top of the brackets and line up the screw holes with the top tabs.

b. Using the screws you removed from the table in step

1. Secure the table to the brackets at the four (4) points.

c. Once the screws are secure slide the table and brackets back so that the table is against the machine.

d. Tighten the front screws on the carriage which secure the machine to the carriage.

You are now ready to use the extension table with your rulers while you are quilting.

To remove you will want to reverse the steps and remove the table first then the brackets.

Note: If you remove the machine first the table will fall as it is not attached to the machine.

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