How do you reuse the same pattern in computerized quilting?

Posted by on February 2, 2015

 Take a look at this screen and you will see three selections in the drop down box under the pattern box button.

  1. Add Pattern Box is used when you are going to set a new location for a new pattern design. (Note: remember to select the bottom of the box first so your pattern will come up the correct direction.)
  2. Adjust Current really means Adjust the Current Location of the last pattern you had in the screen view.  For example:

If you wanted to use this scroll triangle that is in this picture for more than one triangle in your quilt, you can simply by adjusting the location of this pattern. Here are the steps.

  1. Get the pattern in view on the screen. If the pattern is back a ways in your screens simply tap on the previous arrow to find it.
  2. Click on the home button.
  3. Click on the Pattern Box button.
  4. Click on Adjust Current (location).
  5. Follow the prompts for selecting the pattern box.
  6. Edit you pattern if needed.
  7. Stitch.

3. Remove Current Box is the last selection and if you click on this, the last box will be erased and if it had a pattern inside that will be gone also..

PATTERN

If you have a quilt and the blocks are not all the same in size you have a choice on the scaling. You could scale each pattern to fit each of the different sized blocks or you could scale for one of the blocks and keep the pattern you first sized so that all the designs are exactly the same size. Sometimes keeping the same sized pattern all the way through will make the irregular quilt look more balanced.

 

Filed under: Blog,TinLizzie18 Quilting Tips | Tags: , , , ,

Zen Work with the Long Arm

Posted by on October 28, 2014

Some of you did zen work in art class in elementary school and might remember this.

As kids we scribbled across a piece of paper and defined some large spaces. Then we went back with crayons or pencils and using our imaginations made our own fantasy designs within each of the boundaries of these scribbled areas.

In this day and age with all of the freedom we have in creating,  zen work is now showing up in quilting. We love it! There is no right and wrong. An amazing amount of new backgrounds are being created. All of it is acceptable. Following are some inspiring designs that we have put together for you to get a grasp on zen work.

Show us your examples on our Facebook page!

image001 image003 image005 image007 image009 image011 image013 image015

Filed under: Blog,TinLizzie18 Quilting Tips | Tags: , , ,

How to Adjust the Ratchet System on the Phoenix Frame

Posted by on June 19, 2014

It’s as easy as 1-2-3!
There really are only three parts to this ratchet adjustment. This is the order they should be installed. Take notice of the direction the ratchets go. The rotation on the top roller is different than on the backing roller.

ratchet1 ratchet2

This is the order they are to be installed. These are the two ratchets on the Phoenix frame. Notice that top roller rotates opposite of the backing roller. If you do not get this direction the correct way these rollers will not properly snap and stay tight when you are rolling your quilt.

I know you can put these on the other way, but we like the top roller to feed the top fabric off of the bottom of the roller and the backing fabric to come off of the backing roller from the top, so that the two pieces of fabric come together as soon as they can. The union of the fabrics helps to stop any bounce the fabric might have during quilting.

ratchet3

This Allen hex key is the tool that is needed for adjustment of the spring tension that makes the ratchet snap down and stay in the teeth of the gear.

ratchet4

This is the place that the Allen key fits into to tighten (righty tighty) or loosen (lefty loosey).

ratchet5The snap on the ratchet has to be just right. If the tension is too loose the ratchet will not snap down and hold onto the gears. If the tension on the spring is too tight the ratchet will be stubborn and not respond well and you might find that you have to put the ratchet into the teeth by hand. You might have to adjust and check several times to find that sweet spot where the ratchet is the most responsive and still holds tight into the teeth. You can do this!

ratchet6

Top Roller Teeth

ratchet7

Backing Roller Teeth

This is the direction the ratchets should be.

This is the direction the ratchets should be.

 

Filed under: Blog,TinLizzie18 Quilting Tips | Tags: , , , , ,

What to do when the machine “jams!”

Posted by on June 2, 2014

Bam! Don’t you just hate that sound? And then the machine is locked up.

The first thing to do is stay calm 99% of the time it is only a fuzzy or thread jam.

PHOTO1A PHOTO1B

If you are in computer mode—save your layout. Don’t worry, you can get back to where you were in the pattern if you save the layout. Then turn everything off.

Go to the back of the machine and grab on to the fly wheel and see if there is any play in the motion of the wheel. In simple terms, rock the wheel back and forth and see if you can get it to free up. Don’t force it; you don’t want to turn the hook on the shaft into another position. You can be firm with it but, let’s check some other things before we go to brutal force.
PHOTO2Rock the fly wheel to get motion between the hook and race to help clear out threads.

Take the bobbin case out.
PHOTO3
Take the needle out. You might have to unscrew the needle bar screw to get the needle out—and it might be that you have to take the needle out to get the bobbin case out.

PHOTO4Look in the bobbin basket area and see if there are any threads or fuzzies that you can clear out. Pull them out and use a tweezers if necessary. Then use a lint brush and really work at it to get every bit out that you can.

Oil the bobbin basket/ hook. Oil it until the oil can saturate the fuzzy. Sometimes you will need to let the oil set for a while. Rock the fly wheel a little and then re oil in sequences so that you can work the oil into the fuzzy.

PHOTO5A PHOTO5B PHOTO5COil at the top          Oil on the left        Oil on the right

Try to get oil between the outer part of the hook and the inner part that is called the race. That is generally where the fuzzy is. Our plan is to oil up the fuzzy and when it is greasy enough we will be able to turn the fly wheel and spin the fuzzy out.

PHOTO6Now begin to rock the fly wheel. You will know if you are making headway by how far you can rock it back and forth. It is definitely a fuzzy or thread jam if you can get the fly wheel to respond and loosen up. I remember that I once had to rock that fly wheel 500 times to get the oil worked into the fuzzy so it would then turn.

Once you get the fly wheel turning free, you can turn the machine on without any needle or bobbin case and spin the fuzzys and extra oil out.

It is possible that during the initial thread jam the hook could be turned on the shaft. You will know that this has happened if you cannot get a full rotation of the needle without hitting the hook. You will also know if you are slightly out of time if you begin sewing and skip stitches. If the hook is no longer synchronized with the needle then check out one of the timing videos on our website or YouTube channel, or look in the manual for timing instructions.

Filed under: Blog,Lizzie Support,TinLizzie18 Quilting Tips | Tags: , , , , , , ,

Which Ruler Should I Try First with my Long arm?

Posted by on May 22, 2014

There are so many long arm rulers on the market now that it is hard to decide what you should acquire for tools. You probably should start with something simple.

We believe that the simplest rulers are the straight edge, the wavy edge and the arc. Small rulers fewer than 10 inches are the easiest to control.

The rulers below are the ones that we have chosen to use first in this beginner class.

PHOTO1

The wide variety of designs that can be made from the arc ruler will amaze you. The trick is to learn to hold the ruler with slight pressure down and into and toward the quilting foot. As you hold onto the handle bar on the quilting machine also place a little pressure toward the ruler. Some quilters glue small button shaped pieces of sand paper onto the rulers to help reduce the slipping of the ruler on the fabric.

PHOTO2

The wiggle ruler will help guide you through small scallops, shells, arc, and apple slices. If you want to add a busy look to the quilt you might use smaller wiggles or waves. If you wish to have a more relaxed look to your work you might use the larger wave or wiggle side of the ruler.

PHOTO3

The straight edge acrylic ruler is ¼ inch thick. One end of the ruler has a 45 degree angle on it and the other end has an arc on it. This ruler is sometimes called the ‘stitch in the ditch’ ruler. The long sides of the ruler are notched to help hold tight the front or the back of the quilting machine foot. When you begin or end a straight line, you do not want any wiggle in the end of the line so the notch helps to steady your line. Long engraved lines appear on the ruler and these lines can be placed on the seams of the patchwork to measure the stitching distance from the seam.

Filed under: Blog,TinLizzie18 Quilting Tips | Tags: , , ,

Christmas is almost here……..

Posted by on December 23, 2011

Hopefully everyone is finally beginning to emerge from the fog of Christmas quilting.  With the mad rush almost behind us we can breathe a little easier . It’s time to enjoy some Christmas cookies for the endless hours of quilting creations we have created with Lizzie. Here at TinLizzie18 we are thankful to be part of such a great community.  We wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year filled with endless quilting designs with Lizzie.

 

Filed under: Blog | Tags: , , , ,

<< View all posts

© 2017 TinLizzie18. All Rights Reserved.   |   2263 West 7800 South   |   West Jordan, Utah 84088   |   888.784.5818   |   Site Map   |   Legal Disclaimer   |   Privacy Policy